There I said it. My bodice fit me fine without sleeves but when I put them in, they create havoc with the fit.
Now I need your help to figure out what to do. Lets start with some pictures of the misery, shall we?
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Here you can see how the sleeves drag my shoulder straps of my shoulder.
And a closeup:
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My thoughts goes as follows:
The overarm width feels OK, they are snug but not overly tight but I think I need to add at least 1,5 cm since muslin stretches and damask and stiff linen will not.
I think that I need to make the sleeve head higher, when I move it feels like the top of my shoulder doesn't have enough room to move around and drags the bodice down over my shoulder.
I don't know, maybe I should make the armhole a bit bigger in the front too? Or will that make my problem worse?
Oh, I really want this to fit so I can start with the fun part. I've already stitched together the back panels so as soon as the lining is finished I can just cut and work.
/L
Now sleeves isn't my thing either, so I don't have any brilliant suggestions. But perhaps you could fiddle a bit in how you set them? Put the sleeve seam a little further back or front?
ReplyDeleteI would make the sleeve head higher and check that before cutting into the bodice- at least from my experience it's usually the sleeve that is the culprit...
Now that I slept on it I also think the sleeve is the problem, not the armhole/bodice.
ReplyDeleteThis morning during breakfast tea I compared the circumference of the armhole on my bodice with the circumference of an armhole for a tight fitting modern jacket with tight sleeves and my bodice had a bigger armhole!
So I have added a little more on the arm width and 2 cm on the height of the sleevehead and we'll see how that turns out.
I can't really see, but it looks like your sleeve-head and armhole both need to be a bit bigger.
ReplyDeleteI'm good at sleeves - but it is just blind luck, I don't know what I do!