Pet en l'air - Part two - Bodice fitting

Today during my tea break I stitched together the mock up for the bodice and the sleeves. I was skeptic to the sleeves the minute they were in. They looked like they might be too tight and the pleating was not nice at all. I also discovered that my tries to eliminate the need of darts in the shoulder strap area failed a bit, there was still a bit to much fabric there.
*le big sigh*
I know that a dart in that area is period, I've seen it in PoF but I really want to have a smooth inner bodice so there will be at least one more bodice mock up.
So this is how the bodice looks like on Vermont:

Front

Sleeve

Back

Tonight the Fantastic M, (my lovely boyfriend), helped me to lace up and then helped me to fit the back of the bodice. I have to take quite a bit away at the top CB. I think it's because my body mass are at the front while Vermont has his on his back ;)

Apart from the gap in the top CB, the bodice fit me fine. The sleeves did not. At all. The length was right but the width over my forearm was too tight. I need to add at least 3 cm there. I'm also playing with the idea to make the sleeve head rounded at the top not square because I think it will be easier to set in. I've seen both versions in PoF so I think it's safe.

Since it was so dark when we did the fitting on me, there are no pictures. But to comfort you here are piece of muslin that I've tested my pinking skills on. I think it looks nice and I will use this technique on the bottom frill for my petticoat. The strip is 23 cm wide and I marked both edges in 2,5 cm intervalls. Then I used those marks as guies for the pinking shapes when I cut with my shears.

The rounded shapes will be the head, I think.